Friday, January 22, 2016

I'm starting on my board

I Having an issue with my beginning surfing sorry to compare it to teaching piano (something I do well), or rock climbing (got to 5.11indoors and 5.10was 1st outdoor in 6months)
main Issue:
the surf Board - every surf website suggests obtaining a "cost effective" board that's Big enough. In 2013 I was told by Jay Nu, Carve USA's CEO to ditch the lessons and buy a 9'-10' soft top from Honolulu (argh)Walmart- that the time I spend on the board will teach me more than the 1st lesson is worth. then aside from being offered a lesson with Sunny Garcia, I was told Sunny starts his students on a short board they purchase with lessons. So, same as piano- get something and get playing or get with a pro and learn their way. But, however I don't like lessons as they said in Sarasota, Florida that I have unofficial "defiance disorder" for some reason. 
So, 'MY Board, MY Way.' I thought (my 1st board) would come to me and be something I learn from, aside from not being completely eco unfriendly trash like some soft top. I asked around 2 Triple Crowns later 2015 and was offered to purchase a used Plumeria 8'6" mini tanker from Plumeria's rep Robert Courtney. Thanks to Johnny Orr from Liquid my board price was talked down a little bit mainly because "it's a bit yellow & taking on water".
I got a used board bag, leash, and soft rack too. Though Surfer Supply was going outta biz one day on way to my helix warmup@24 hr with an ambulance out front blocking the parking garage... I got a new DaKine longboard leash, board sponge, wax for a little bit.   I went to the North Shore Surf Shop and bought a pretty red fiberglass cutout fin that day I got the board. It took 2 weeks of searching for a pair, the only pair, of Futures honeycomb actual fN side bites I could find on the entire fN island-- that coincidntally color coordinate. 
Total spent- a bunch. Though the shopping motivated and taught me some things as well as my newbie discovery of the FireWire line (which better be my next board). And a book "sustainable surf". That's aside from meeting Jimbo (board shaper) who charges @ $100/board foot. Then a Big wave surfer also named Angela who found me with my new board at the Green World coffee shop- getting all metaphysical on me & sounding like my Mother only with surf and waves in mind. 
After consideration of making the Brewer stock board a preserved surf relic since his boards are already collectible;-Today, I put my board fins on. Sidebite fin screws a little rusty, and caving in to Chuck's placement of the center fin. I was going to put it all the way up.
It's a smaller day at the North Shore;- headed to Freddyland,maybe. I decided I'd rather look worse on larger waves than mess myself up at the Old Beach (Barber's Point).
12/2014 was my first time on a Waikiki rental board. And first time I tried I caught a wave, I had to jump down due to tourist surfers in the way attempting to paddle. Argh. I tanned on the board with Israeli Suzie nearby on her rental. 
I need to make this surfing thing real.

And yes, I met Kelly Slater 1x with his GF @ the Elephant Truck in 2013 and 1x he was @turtle bay driving range under hat cover. I did wait from when I was a teenager at Jersey Shore to be "seen" around a real surfer instead of shortboards in poser skimboarding shore break while In awe of the people a mentioned above. it was well worth the 2.5 decade wait and being told everyone thinks I'm a surfer for 10years.

End of day- went to Freddyland with Chuck (who went out to V-land to catch some waves). I'm sore from Paddling in places I didn't think I'd be sore. Freddyland got up to about 6' waves and was fun. Have to go out again soon...I think this can be addictive. 
Watched the sunset with everyone back @ chuck's -(Marine who attended the Memorial service this morning from the crashed unit that's been in news lately & his newly envaged friends) Chuck, Johnny Orr- Ty for a beautiful day...the planets are in alignment literally.